Woke
up at 5AM for the 1st time this holiday to travel to Indore to meet some uncles
I hadn't met in years. With temperatures at 8 degrees and a 6:30 train to
catch, this was one difficult morning! As is the custom with me these days, I
reached station seconds before the train departure time. But luckily, the train
today was running late, thank fog for that because I had to still buy a ticket!
Now I had never travelled general category which may be regarded as the "cattle
class" of Indian railways and since this was a short 3 hour journey, I
decided to take a chance. Life is nothing but a mix of experiences and I
expected this one to be a hell of an experience!
So
with the ticket secured, I was all set for the journey and waiting for the
train which decided to show up only at 7! In the meanwhile, a man known to dad
approached him and started off a conversation. He took stock of me and the rest
of my family and gave us some uninvited gyaan
about his family. I've always felt that such experiences where you get in
contact with the masses offer a great insight into the society we live in and
these journeys to and back from Indore were no different. And that is exactly
what I had signed up for! For example, this gentleman of ours told us "mera bada beta pehle yahaan 8000 ki naukri kar raha tha ab Dilli mein 28000 pe hai, khush hai". Or "Saab 20 saal aur 200 crore ke
ghotalo ke baad ab jaakar apne vidhaayak ji ka tod aaya hai" implying
that the corrupt incumbent MLA finally lost. Or "samaaj ke Marriage fair mein
jaa raha hun Saab, bade bete ke liye koi khaate peete khaandaan ki lugaai
dekhne". Marriage fairs? Really?
Must
confess that his last statement shook my determination to travel cattle class.
I mean these marriage fairs attract a lot of people which means that the train
would be overflowing with such people! Dad sensed my fear and with an "I
told you so" expression, offered me a drop to the bus stand for me to take
a comfortable bus instead. But hell! I may never get a chance to experience
this again and I didn't wanna let it go! The train arrived, not as full as I
expected and so I jumped in and managed to get myself a… ummmm… seat if you can call it because I was the 6th
guy to sit on that seat made for 4. And thus, the journey began…
This
post is about the different kind of people you will encounter in journeys like
these – the real masses of a considerably backward state of Madhya Pradesh. So
the first guy of the day was the over enthusiastic, overtly friendly gentleman
of ours who valued everything in monetary terms. Then there was the kumbakaran of the journey. This guy slept below our seat, on the
floor of the train right through the journey totally oblivious to all the chaos
around. It was only later after the train reached its destination that he told
us he’s a labourer and has a hard day’s work ahead and has to travel somewhere
else at night. He’s been doing that since a week and hasn’t got enough sleep
hence, the 4 hour nap at everyone’s footrest to cover up. #Respect
Then
there was the “bade baap ki aulaad”
and the “jaat bhai”. So this guy
entered the train to sell his chanas
and was confronted by this mid aged man who was upset because he did not get a
seat. A fight quickly brewed up where this man fired the chana guy for entering an overcrowded train for his business and
the chana guy retaliated saying he’s
just doing his job. Over the next 20 minutes I heard all possible bad words in Hindi
where these 2 involved their mothers and sisters and the other guy’s mother and
sister. For a moment I thought they were long lost friends. How else would they
even know that the other guy had a mother or sister? ;) This man went on about
how the other guy doesn’t know ki “main kaun hun” and the other guy went on
about how he would get all his chana
selling jaat bhais together to screw
this man.
An
uncle, the wise guy, sitting next to me finally ended the fight saying “baatein band karo aur maarna shuru karo”
after which, both our “brave” men quietly walked away from each other. A little
later, our “bade baap ki aulaad”
announced in the bogie that all of us should make place for all ladies to get a
seat. “koi mata aur behene khadi nahi
rahengi aaj” he said to my surprise considering that minutes back he was
using all the maa-behen abuses known
to mankind.
Nothing
more on the onward journey but enough on the return journey to make me tweet
incessantly from the train and eventually write this blog post. So I again
reached the station minutes before the train would depart only to learn that
this time, I had no place to sit in the train at all! The Marriage fair was
supposedly over and everyone decided to return by this very train! I still got
in with the determination to stand for the next 3 hours but NOTHING could get
me to leave this train and take a bus instead! Yeah I am like that, ek baar jo maine decide kar liya fir main kisi ki nahi sunta.
:P Luckily, in a while I got a seat. This one, on the top berth meant for
luggage and on a platform made of wood! Damn this wasn’t expected! Out of a
mini depression, I picked up a book and started to read.
Very
soon, something caught my ears. It was a conversation between the uncles
sitting below about Aam Aadmi Party, its promises and its fortunes in Delhi.
Now that’s interesting. Here there were some mid aged to old aged men making a
mockery of a political party which a lot of youth consider the future of Indian
politics. Given my interest in politics, I HAD to listen to this! Very soon the
conversation got the whole compartment involved. There was an old uncle, a few
mid aged uncles, a few young uncles and 3 guys of my age sitting on top
listening to the great uncles share there gyaan.
The old uncle was the pessimist who said that AAP wouldn’t run for 3 months. A
younger uncle who was also trying to be the ring leader said that he would give
AAP less than a month and a half. Somehow, all the uncles agreed that AAP
wouldn’t last long to which we young guys, just looked at each other and
smiled.
The
conversation soon turned to predictions about the 2014 general elections where
the uncles bet on a sweep for BJP in the Hindi heartland and a majority for
regional parties in other areas. All of them completely wrote off the Congress
and called our Prime Minister a “rubber stamp” PM. That jibe somehow, has never
gone down well with me. I mean c’mon, he is after all the Prime Minister of our
country and we ought to be respectful to the post! But here, I was just a
listener and not a contributor to the conversation. May be I would give my
verdict in a most filmy manner while getting off the train and then expect a
standing ovation from the uncles just like in the movies. ;)
The
conversation soon moved on to corruption where each of them cited various
instances where they have faced corruption. Quite ironic as most of them were
travelling without tickets and blaming the government for the state of the
nation. “Saab raajneeti ne desh ko duba
diya hai… Is government ne toh akaash, bhu, agni, paani kisi bhi
cheez ko nahi choda”. Sadly it’s become a trend for our countrymen to blame
the government for everything wrong while we ourselves are responsible for
making things so wrong with our country! Such hypocrites we are aren’t we?
A
statement from the uncles I will never forget. “Engineer 2 tarah ke hote hain. Government college waale aur bazaar waale”. Was highly amusing to me how private
colleges were referred to as “bazaar”.
It is after all a market with Indore itself having more than 100 private
engineering colleges! An interesting topic then started about the advent of
mobile phones and Internet. A supposedly “modern” uncle spoke about this
“great” new technology which tells a person where he is at that moment and to
other uncle’s disbelief, can direct him to his destination with exact
instructions. On hearing that, I quickly closed my Google maps which I was
using to track my train’s progress and put my phone in my pocket.
While
our learned old men conversed about almost every topic from politics to
technology and education to weddings, we, “the future of India” as they called
us, were quietly listening and absorbing and tweeting in my case. Their
conversation was then interrupted by what I would call, the moment of the
journey. A guy entered the bogie to sell his bhel and his unique style would put the best marketeers in our
country to shame. I cannot recollect his whole “advertisement” for the bhel but the punch line went like “agar maza na aaye khaane mein toh rapat
likhaao meri thane mein”! There was also a mention of Asaram Bapu in his
pitch which invited a big laugh from all the passengers. Obviously, it resulted
in good sale for him.
There
is something that you will notice about people if you look carefully. We tend
to be more accommodating and considerate when we sit together and have a random
conversation to which, we share the same point of view. In an overtly full
compartment, our uncles suddenly noticed a couple of men standing on the side
and quickly made some adjustments and invited them to take a seat. It probably
is a way to earn brownie points in a gathering of like-minded people by showing
others how considerate you are as there isn’t much that differentiates you from
others.
The
last part of my journey was something that summed it up for me. When the
conversation between the uncles was on the topic of sanskaars and how money cannot by sanskaars, one of them started smoking a beedi, an Indian alternative to a cigarette. To this, another
middle aged gentleman, who had been quiet right through the journey said “uncle
abhi sanskaaron ki baat kar rahe the aur
ab bahu-betiyon ke saamne beedi pe rahe ho”? I so wanted to start clapping
for this gentleman who delivered the punch line which I hoped to deliver myself
at the end of the journey! Such hypocrites we are aren’t we?
With
that arrived my station and I took leave of these strangers whom I would
probably never see again but helped me to an entertaining and enriching
journey. Entertaining as I did not realize how those 3 hours passed and
enriching as there is always so much you can learn about people whom you don’t
interact with on a day-to-day basis through such experiences. Guys and girls, if you are adventures and
want to learn what our real masses think like, take my advice and travel cattle
class in train once. Be open to all kind of people around and do not hesitate
in dropping in to a random conversation. You never know when and where an
experience like this might come in handy…